Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Comfort Food

We live in Beer Sheva. As of last night, we are officially in a war zone. Several missiles launched from Gaza have landed here. Schools are closed (One missile hit an empty school building this morning.) and many people are staying close to home. Thank God, there have been no injuries so far.

Otherwise, life is fairly normal. The man from the gas company brought our new gas canister and UPS was just here to pick up a package. Even Teva Ha’bsor, our organic produce provider, which is very close to Gaza, is open and working. Their plan is to deliver tomorrow, as usual.

During times of stress, many people turn to food for comfort. It’s understandable. Anxiety and fear affect our physical as well as our mental health. Some people lose their appetite. Others feel like eating more. Many of us crave something soothing, like ice cream, macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes and chocolate.

Everyone has their favorites. For me, it’s soup. Right now I want something warm, creamy and satisfying. I don’t want to fuss around a lot in the kitchen. And I want to use what’s already in the refrigerator. With an onion, potatoes and cauliflower, here’s what I made:

Curried Cauliflower Soup (Parve)

1 tablespoon olive or canola oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1 cauliflower, chopped coarsely (about 8 cups)
1 or 2 potatoes, peeled and diced (about 1 ½ cups)
8 cups vegetable broth or water
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat the oil in a large pot. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft. Add the curry powder and sugar and cook for another minute. Add the cauliflower, potato and broth. Bring the soup to a boil, lower the heat and cook covered for 30-45 minutes, until the vegetables are soft. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Puree the soup (I use a hand-held immersion blender) and serve.

8-10 servings

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

What, No Margarine? Healthy Parve Baking

I talk a lot about using healthy fats. And avoiding margarine.

Even the newly-formulated trans fat-free margarines are not what I’d call healthy. They’re basically mixtures of vegetable oil and food additives. And when manufacturers get rid of the trans fat in margarine, many of them substitute highly saturated palm oil.

But there are healthy alternatives.

Olive oil is at the top of the list. Tasty, versatile and good for you. Most people are fine with using olive oil on salads and on vegetables.

Canola oil is a good choice. It’s affordable and mild tasting. Since it can withstand higher temperatures than most olive oil, it's good for cooking.

Parve baking can still be problematic.

In most cases, you can’t just take a recipe that calls for margarine and substitute an equal amount of oil. It just won’t work well.

And the type of fat you use is only one consideration when you want to bake healthier desserts. It’s also important to cut back on total fat as well as sugar. At the same time, why not try to incorporate healthy ingredients, like nuts, seeds, whole grains and fruit?

There are many cake recipes that use oil rather than margarine. Carrot cake and apple cake are two examples. A variety of tortes use ground nuts, dried fruit, cocoa and chocolate. Angel and sponge cakes don’t use any fat (except for eggs), and chiffon cakes are made with oil.

I’m a big fan of fruit desserts like “crisps”, baked fruit and compote.

There are delicious parve cookie recipes that use olive oil. And biscotti filled with dried fruits and nuts are a tasty choice. Some of my favorite cookies are based simply on nuts and egg whites, like almond macaroons and chewy pistachio cookies.

These two parve cookie recipes prove that baking without margarine can produce delicious (and healthier!) results. Though both are based on almonds, they are as different as can be. The first is a whole-grain “thumb-print” cookie filled with jam. It doesn’t use eggs, so it’s even suitable for vegans. The second is an elegant wafer-like cookie made with just four ingredients. (o.k., five if you choose to add a coating of chocolate)


Thumbprint Linzer Cookies (Parve)

1 cup whole almonds
1 cup uncooked rolled oats
1 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup canola oil
½ cup maple syrup
¼ cup good quality raspberry jam

Preheat the oven to 300 F (150 C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Place the almonds and oats in a food processor and process with the metal blade until the mixture is very fine. Add the flour, cinnamon and salt and pulse several times to mix. Add the oil and maple syrup and pulse again until combined and the mixture forms a soft dough.

Shape the mixture into small balls with your hands, using a scant tablespoon of dough for each. Place the balls on the baking sheet, leaving space between each.

Using your finger, make a small indentation in each ball of dough. Fill the holes with a small amount of jam.

Bake for 15-20 minutes, until lightly brown.

Remove from the oven and cool on the pan for 5 minutes. Then remove the cookies to a cooling rack to cool completely.

Approximately 3 dozen cookies

Faux Florentine Cookies (Parve)

2 ¾ cups sliced almonds
1 cup powdered sugar
2 egg whites
Finely grated zest of one orange
Parve bittersweet chocolate (optional)

Preheat the oven to 300 F (150 C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and spray the paper with non-stick baking spray.

In a medium size bowl, gently combine the almonds, sugar, egg whites and orange zest.

Drop scant tablespoons of the mixture on the baking sheets, leaving plenty of space between each one. Dip your fingers in water and flatten each cookie into a very thin disc. It should be as flat as possible, but still cohesive. Each cookie will be about 2 ½ inches (6 cm) wide.

Bake for about 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Cool completely before carefully removing each cookie with a spatula.

For chocolate coated cookies, gently melt the chocolate in a double boiler or microwave. Brush one side of each cooled cookie with the warm chocolate. Cool them on a rack, chocolate side up, until the chocolate hardens.

Store these cookies in an air-tight container.

Makes about 40 small cookies

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Too Many Latkes?


Have you had your fill of latkes? Can’t bear to see another jelly donut?

Do you feel like you’ve put on weight since the start of Chanukah?

How about planning a simple and healthy Shabbat dinner this week? Here's a menu idea: salmon, steamed broccoli, quinoa pilaf and a green salad. And for dessert, baked apples.

My greengrocer recently introduced me to Pink Lady Apples. First he had big shiny ones with stickers in English - obviously for export. Now he has smaller, un-waxed Ladies - export rejects! These apples are sweet and crisp. They’re great for eating raw. And they don’t fall apart during baking.

Here’s an easy recipe for baked apples that uses heart healthy walnuts and oatmeal and a minimum amount of sugar and fat.

Shabbat Shalom, Chanukah Sameach and Chodesh Tov!


Apple-Crisp Baked Apples (Parve)

¼ cup brown sugar
¼ cup rolled oats
½ cup chopped walnuts
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 cup apple juice or cider
6 medium or 8 small firm baking apples


Preheat the oven to 375 F (190 C). Spray a baking dish with non-stick cooking spray.

Combine the brown sugar, rolled oats, walnuts and cinnamon in a small bowl. Add the oil and stir to combine.

Peel the top third of each apple. Use an apple corer or a melon scoop to remove the core of the apple. Leave the bottom of the apple intact, so the filling won’t leak out.

Fill each apple generously with the nut filling. Spoon any extra filling on top. Arrange the apples in the baking dish and pour the apple juice around the apples.

Cover the dish tightly and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the cover and continue to bake for about 30 minutes, basting the apples with the juice in the dish. The apples are done when you can easily cut them with a sharp knife.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

Serves 6-8

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Vegetarian Chanukah Menu

How about an Indian-inspired vegetarian meal this Chanukah?

Fragrant spices and frozen peas take traditional latkes to another level.

As an accompanyment, red lentil dal. In India, the word dal is used loosely for legumes, which provide the major source of protein for vegetarians there.

To make this meal even easier, cook the dal ahead of time and re-heat it in the microwave. A simple green salad or chopped Israeli-style salad would work well to complete this meal.

Indian-Style Latkes

These green-flecked, delicately spiced potato pancakes remind me of Indian dosas – crispy thin pancakes filled with spiced potatoes and peas.

2 ½ pounds (1 kilo) potatoes
1 large onion
2 eggs
2 tablespoons flour
½ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
3 tablespoons fresh chopped coriander
2 tablespoons fresh grated ginger
½ -1 teaspoon salt
½ cup frozen peas, defrosted
Vegetable oil for sautéing
Low-fat yogurt for serving

If the potatoes are organic, scrub them well and leave the peels on. Conventionally-grown potatoes should be washed and peeled.

Coarsely grate the potatoes and onion in a food processor. Transfer to a colander to drain.

Mix the eggs with the flour, all of the spices and the salt. Squeeze the potatoes and onions to extract any liquid and add them to the egg mixture. Gently mix in the peas.

In a large non-stick skillet, heat two tablespoons of oil until hot. Cook the latkes, using about ¼ cup of the potato mixture per pancake. Flatten each pancake and cook until browned on each side. Drain on a paper-towel lined plate.

To keep the latkes warm until serving time, arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet and place in a 250 F (120 C) oven.

Serve with low-fat yogurt.

Makes about 24 latkes


Red Lentil Dal

Red lentils are a healthy convenience food. They don’t require pre-soaking and are done cooking in half an hour or less. They’ll break down into a puree and turn golden yellow while they’re cooking.

1 cup red lentils, sorted and rinsed well
3 cups water
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons canola oil
¼ teaspoon black mustard seed
¼ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger

Bring the lentils to a boil with the water and salt. Reduce the heat and cook, partially covered over low heat, for 20-30 minutes, until the lentils soft and completely broken down. Add more water if necessary, to keep the lentils from sticking.

Heat the oil in a separate small skillet. Add the mustard seeds and cook until they turn gray and start to pop. Add the rest of the spices and cook for another minute. Add this mixture to the cooked lentils and serve.

Serves 4-6

Thursday, December 18, 2008

A Happy Healthy Chanukah


Do you really expect to lose those extra few pounds or even maintain your weight right now?

Soofganiyot, latkes, fried pastries, cookies. Family get-togethers and Chanukah parties where the food seems to multiply before your eyes.

Food plays such a central role in our holidays. Why is it so hard to resist, especially when we know that too much food does more harm than good?

One of our biggest problems is portion control. Knowing how much to put on our plates and when to say “no”. The Rambam was right on target when he said:

“ Overeating is like poison to the body. It is the main source of all illness. Most illnesses which afflict a man are caused by harmful foods or by his filling his belly and overeating, even of healthful foods.” (Hilchot De’ot 4:15)

Here’s my Chanukah strategy:

If you like soofganiyot, find the freshest, best tasting one, with your
favorite filling. Sit down and savor it slowly with a cup of coffee or tea.
Relax and enjoy it. Yes, ONE delicious-tasting soofganiyah for all of Chanukah.

Don’t make them yourself. You’ll eat more than one. And don’t order any to take home. It’s too tempting.

The same with latkes. Make them ONCE during Chanukah. Instead of serving them as a main course, serve them as a side dish with fish, poultry or a hearty soup or salad.

Use a non-stick pan and sauté them in a small amount of oil. Drain the latkes on paper towels to absorb some of the oil. Serve them with low-fat sour-cream, yogurt or applesauce.
Some people like to add color and nutrition to latkes with grated vegetables like carrots, celery root, sweet potato or zucchini. For a leaner latke, you can bake them on a cookie sheet or in muffin tins.
Personally, I prefer my latkes “straight” – thin crisp cakes of potatoes and onion, sautéed in canola oil. I enjoy eating them right from the pan, sans plate and fork. But the idea is to eat ONE or TWO, not five or ten or a plateful. Fill your dish with salad or vegetables and leave room for only a few latkes. Or use a small plate to begin with.

Rambam had a solution for overeating. One that’s as sensible today as it was in his time:

“ One should not eat until his stomach is full. Rather, he should stop when he has eaten close to three-quarters of full satisfaction.” (Hilchot De’ot 4:2)

Wishing everyone a happy and healthy Chanukah!

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Soofganiyot - Chanukah Jelly Doughnuts



Israelis are being tempted with jelly doughnuts – soofganiyot, earlier and earlier. Years ago, soofganiyot were a Chanukah-only specialty.

Now they go on sale right after Rosh Hashanah. And here in Beer Sheva, they're looking bigger every year.

So I was pleasantly surprised to read that soofganiyot consumption in Israel is not really as bad as it appears. These statistics, on sales from last Chanukah (תשס"ת), are very encouraging:

There was a 4% decrease in overall sales of soofganiyot from the previous year

30 % of all soofganiyot sold were “mini” sized: 35-50 grams, rather than the usual 80 grams

5% of all soofganiyot sold were baked rather than fried

Hopefully, this trend towards fewer, smaller and healthier jelly doughnuts will continue this year.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

What Should I Eat?


Legumes

Dried beans and peas (collectively called legumes) are a great source of low-fat protein. They’re high in vitamins, minerals, anti-oxidants and fiber.
Best of all, they’re tasty, versatile and inexpensive. My favorite legumes are red lentils, which cook in about 20 minutes. (No need for pre-soaking.) A little sautéed onion, minced garlic or ginger, curry powder…. I’m already hungry!

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Organic - What's It All About?

Organic food is “in”.

You don’t have to go to a health-food store anymore to find organically-grown fruits and vegetables. Even organic canned goods, grains, dairy products, cookies and crackers are now carried by many mainstream grocery stores. In Israel, larger supermarkets boast a טבע - “natural” aisle, with an array of organic beans, grains, flour, canned goods and sweets. Even our mid-size neighborhood store sells an assortment of organic vegetables in their produce department.

“Organic” refers to the way farmers grow and produce foods. Organic farmers feed their soil with compost or manure rather than chemical fertilizers. They use beneficial insects or traps rather than insecticides to reduce pests and disease. They’ll rotate their crops or use mulch to manage weeds, instead of using chemical herbicides.

Organic foods are free of pesticides, hormones and antibiotics. The idea is to reduce environmental damage and conserve natural resources. And to produce healthier food.

Is there a health benefit to eating organic food?

Although we can’t say for sure just how harmful they are, it stands to reason that pesticide and hormone-laden foods can’t be good for you.

Are organically-grown foods more nutritious? A few studies have shown higher vitamin, mineral and micro-nutrient content in some organic produce. But there’s no conclusive evidence that organic food is more nutritious than conventionally-grown food.

What do I think?

I prefer to buy organic when it’s in season and the quality is good. And when it's affordable. I won't buy droopy-looking carrots or berries flown in from South America – organic or not.

When organic isn't available, I buy conventionally-grown local produce. Because it's not easy to eat enough fruits and vegetables. And it's often impossible to find many nutritious ones that are organically-grown. Fruit is even harder to find. And prices can be outrageous. So my strategy is to start with organically-grown produce and fill-in with conventionally-grown.

Right now, I can buy organic potatoes, onions, carrots, squash, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, avocado, fennel, herbs and citrus fruit. But I won’t pass up conventionally-grown broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus, apples, strawberries and persimmons that are currently in season.

You can reduce pesticide residue, dirt and bacteria on conventionally-grown produce by thoroughly washing it and trimming the outer leaves of leafy greens. Peeling helps, but then you loose nutrients and fiber. Organically-grown fruit and vegetables should also be washed carefully.

My hunch is that organically-grown food will prove to be nutritionally advantageous. Meanwhile, I'll pass on pesticides and opt for environmentally-friendly organic whenever possible.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

What Should I Eat?

Most of us hear a lot about what we shouldn’t eat.

“Cut back on red meat.” “Don’t drink sweetened soda.” “Eat fewer processed foods.” “Eat less sugar, fat and salt.” The list of “don’ts” just keeps growing.

Do you ever wonder what’s left that’s healthy and still tastes good? Would you like to know what you really should be eating?

Here’s the first in a periodic series of articles called “What Should I Eat?” Short tidbits about “normal” food that is good for you. Nothing exotic or expensive – I promise.


An Apple a Day?

“An apple a day keeps the doctor away.”

Doesn’t this phrase sound rather passé now that more fashionable fruits are “in”? But it may be closer to the truth that we ever thought.

In a number of large studies, eating apples regularly had a positive effect on blood pressure, risk of heart disease and stroke. Research points to an array of antioxidants and pectin (a form of soluble fiber) in apples that have a positive effect on cholesterol metabolism. Cancer-fighting compounds have also been identified in apples.

There are endless varieties of apples. Though modern agriculture has limited the choice in many supermarkets to a few mainstays like Red and Golden Delicious and Granny Smith, keep an eye out for other varieties as well. Don’t let the designation of “eating” and “baking” get in the way of tasting different apples. You may find that a baking apple is your favorite eating apple. And if you’re lucky, local farmers may be growing heirloom or more unusual varieties native to your area.

Since much of an apple’s healthy phytochemicals are concentrated in its peel, eat whole unpeeled apples whenever you can. When you want a change, try baked apples, apple crisp, apple sauce and even apple juice. Look for unsweetened products that are made with whole apples.