Thursday, January 15, 2009

Whole-Wheat Pastry Flour: The Israel Story

When it comes to cooking and baking, you can usually find everything you need here. But there are exceptions. Here's a question (with my answer) from one of my Israeli readers that I want to share with everyone.


Hi Chana,

What is whole-wheat pastry flour called in Hebrew? Where do you get it? In my local health food store they have two types of wheat flour, 100% whole and 70%whole. As far as I can tell 70% is as whole as white flour. Am I missing something?

Rivka


Dear Rivka,

This sounded like a pretty straight-forward question, until I started looking into it. It seems that not all flour is necessarily what it appears to be!

I called the chief food technologist at Stybel, the large flour producer in Israel, who was extremely helpful. In addition, I contacted health-food store managers in Tel Aviv and Beer Sheva as well as a company that produces stone-ground whole-wheat flour.

Let’s start with whole-wheat pastry flour. In the US, it’s 100% whole-wheat flour made from soft winter wheat. That means it’s lower in gluten than regular whole-wheat flour, making it especially good for cakes, cookies, muffins and biscuits. Unfortunately, it’s not produced in Israel. The Stybel technologist said that they could easily produce it here if people wanted it, but right now there’s no demand.

At one time I used קמח מלא מנופה – sifted whole-wheat flour, in place of whole-wheat pastry flour. It was less gritty than regular whole-wheat flour, which indicated that it had indeed been sifted. But apparently there’s no standard definition for this flour. My contact at Stybel refused to even talk about it, as to avoid speaking badly about any other flour company! A health-food store manager who sells it in Beer Sheva told me that it was 70% whole-wheat flour – whole-wheat flour with 30 % of the bran removed (sifted out).

That brings me to 90% and 70% whole-wheat flour. In my mind, that sounds like 90 or 70 percent whole-wheat flour mixed with 10 or 30 percent white flour. Wrong!

These are blends made mainly of white flour, with wheat bran and germ mixed back in.

What are your options for baking whole-grain cookies, cakes, muffins and biscuits in Israel?

Stybel’s #6 flour is 100% whole-wheat. Their #8 is 100% organic whole-wheat. For cakes and cookies, you could mix your own blend using either of these together with their cake (#5) or cookie (#4) flours, or an all-purpose white flour (Stybel #1 or any house brand).

I’m very happy with the organic whole-wheat flour I buy from a company in Itamar. (They’re part of a Yesha cooperative of small businesses that deliver here every few months.) The owner told me that he uses soft wheat and grinds it twice in an electric-operated stone grinder. Sometimes I mix it with white flour. But it’s fine-grained and light and gives wonderful results in non-yeasted baked goods. It also makes delicious bread.

Given that it’s made from soft wheat, I’d say that this is the closest to whole-wheat pastry flour you’ll find in Israel. An added benefit is that it doesn’t need to be sifted (to check for insects) before using, since it’s kept under constant refrigeration from just after grinding. It also needs to be stored in the refrigerator or freezer once you bring it home.

I hope this answers your questions. Happy and healthy baking!

Chana

6 comments:

  1. Wow, thanks! I really appreciate your taking the time to work that all out. I would love to have the contact info for that flour company in Itamar.

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  2. The phone number on the bag of flour is 02-997-2478. It must be the home phone number of the person who runs the business, since a child answered!

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  3. Hi Chana - I just found a link to this post when googling "Stybel Flour." I've been having a hard time understanding the Israeli world of flour recently. Can I email you my slightly convoluted question?

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  4. You should look more into the 70% and 85% whole wheat flours. Rubinfeld 02 580 5552 sells 85% whole wheat flour which IS 85% whole wheat and the remainder 15% is NOT white, rather its the germ or bran from the white (or something like that, you have to clarify with them). The flour makes bread that tastes almost like white, and my kids eat it without any complaints. I'm not so sure that the 70% is white flour either.

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  5. I'm not so sure that the 70%/90% is white flour. Rubinfeld 02 580 5552 sells amazing 85% flour. according to them the 85% is whole wheat and the 15% is not even white flour rather its the germ or something from the white (you have to clarify with them). The flour bakes almost like white because it is so finely ground , i use it for the kids pancakes breads etc and they have no problem eating it, even the ones who wont touch regular angels whole wheat bread.

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  6. Thanks for the helpful information. Rubinfeld sounds like a good option, especially if your children like it. I've never seen it here in Beer Sheva. Where do you buy it?

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