Grain Gratins

What's a gratin? It certainly wasn't anything in my mother's repertoire. Well – actually it was. But she called it a casserole.

If you want to get technical, a gratin is baked in a shallow pan and a casserole in a deeper one. Both are served in the dish they're baked in. I envision a gratin having a rich creamy interior and a crispy crust. A casserole brings to mind a thriftier concoction of leftovers mixed with sauce to stretch into another meal.

Here's the basic idea of a gratin based on grains:

Combine cooked rice (or other whole grain), a vegetable, sauce and a little cheese; mix them together and put it into a shallow baking dish; sprinkle with bread crumbs and bake. That's it!

The sauce (called béchamel) doesn't have to be a high fat, high calorie fancy French affair. You can make it with low-fat or non-fat milk or even vegetable stock. Use olive or canola oil instead of butter. Make the sauce in the microwave to cut the prep time in half. You can even mix it all together in the morning and bake it just before serving. What could be easier?

Since I nearly always serve a whole grain for Shabbat dinner, I prepare more than I need so I'll have "planned" leftovers for another meal during the week. I'm careful to keep grains parve, so they can be served with meat on Erev Shabbat and later as part of a dairy meal.

Here's what I made from last Shabbat's leftover red rice:

Rice and Broccoli Gratin

Prepare a white sauce in the microwave:

Put 2 tablespoons of canola oil and 1/4 cup finely minced onion into a 4-cup Pyrex measuring cup. Microwave the onions for a minute or two, until they're soft. Whisk 2 tablespoons of flour into the oil and onions and microwave for another minute. Whisk in 1 1/2 cups of low-fat milk and microwave, whisking occasionally, for 2-4 minutes, until the sauce is thick and starts to boil.

Meanwhile, cut leftover steamed broccoli (a cup or two) into bite-sized pieces. Put it into a mixing bowl with 2 cups of cooked red rice. Shred a little kashkeval (or other variety) cheese into the bowl. Season the mixture with salt and pepper.

Pour the cooked sauce over the rice mixture and mix it all up. Pour it into a lightly greased shallow casserole or pie pan and sprinkle some bread crumbs over the whole thing. Bake at 400 F (200 C) for 20-35 minutes, until it's heated through and bubbly.

Shimon Peres' Secret

President Shimon Peres' secret to a long and healthy life has finally been revealed – he eats lots of fruits and vegetables!

During a recent meeting with Israel's Fruit Grower's Association, he shared his strategy, which includes eating fruit salad with every meal.

Peres had high praise for Israeli hi-tech agriculture while tasting some of their interesting new fruits: blue, red and black bananas, apple-flavored bananas, jackfruit, Japanese raisins and Indian plums.

Having met President Peres, I can tell you that he looks at least 10 years younger than his 86 years.

I think he's got a great strategy.

Just don't wait around for those blue bananas.

It's Kosher. But is it Safe?

In the US, only 15% of all consumers who purchase kosher food do so because they observe the Jewish dietary laws.

Most people buy kosher products for other reasons. Vegetarians and those sensitive to dairy rely on kosher parve labels. Observant Muslims may buy kosher meat when halal isn't available.

Many people think that kosher means safer and healthier. Some even think that kosher food is blessed by a rabbi. That must make it better.

Kosher food certainly has gained in popularity.

Supervisory agencies have multiplied from a handful to hundreds. It started with a simple can of baked beans. Now there are thousands of products in every supermarket.

Except for meat and poultry, earlier generations didn't have a big need for kosher certification. That's because their diets were fairly simple. Kosher supervision grew as food technology advanced and processed food became a major part of our diet.

Does kosher mean safe? Does it mean healthy?

In one study, salting and rinsing chicken reduced salmonella levels significantly. But when kosher, organic and conventional chicken was compared in another study, kosher chicken had the most contamination from listeria.

When I browse the lists of newly certified kosher products, I don't see much in the way of healthy products. Baked goods, candy, soft drinks and highly processed food top most of the lists. Remember the excitement when Oreos became kosher? Now Tootsie Rolls are the big deal.

Equating kosher with purity, quality and goodness seems like a stretch.

Several years ago I contracted salmonella poisoning at a restaurant in the US whose mashgiach (kosher supervisor) was on the premises throughout the day. Later I discovered that the restaurant had been sited repeatedly for sanitation violations. While I don't expect a mashgiach to get rid of rats, I would hope that he wouldn't turn a blind eye.

The same kashrut agency published a full-page article, signed by one of its rabbis, praising a popular brand of high-fat ice cream. While it's perfectly acceptable to announce a product that's under your supervision, it's not acceptable to encourage people to buy a blatantly unhealthy product that you're being paid to supervise.

I'm not suggesting that we equate kashrut with anything but what it is – the Jewish dietary laws according to halachah. I don't expect kosher certifiers to stand in for the health department or for nutrition educators. But I do think it's time for them to take responsibility and not ignore public health issues that are staring them right in the face.

Food-borne illness is a real problem. Halachically, if food is not safe, it's not kosher. Rats in the kitchen, poor sanitation and contaminated eggs are certainly not safe. Rabbis who are quick to give a heksher when a product meets kashrut standards are noticeably quiet on issues of food safety and nutrition.

Should kashrut agencies address these issues?

The recent Agriprocessors scandal prompted the Rabbinical Council of America and the Orthodox Union to re-write their guidelines. Their employees are now being asked to withhold supervision if a company doesn't abide by civil law. That's an acknowledgement that supervision has a role beyond the strict letter of kashrut.

Perhaps food safety and nutrition issues will be addressed in the future. Meanwhile, consumers should realize that kosher food passes only one set of standards – the Jewish dietary laws. It's not healthier, safer or purer than any other food.

Winter Eating

Should you differently now that it's winter?

Obviously, there are basics for healthy eating all year round – lots of vegetables and fruit, whole grains, legumes, nuts and low-fat protein.

But there are some special considerations during the winter months.

For boosting your immune system, antioxidant-rich fruits and vegetables are your best bet. Eat vitamin C rich citrus fruit, strawberries, and kiwi. Avocado, sweet potatoes, winter squash, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, carrots and other root vegetables are full of essential vitamins, minerals and antioxidants to help keep you healthy during the cold and flu season.

Does winter weather leave you feeling "blue"? Complex carbohydrates are high in mood-boosting serotonins that can help lift your spirits on gray winter days. Eat oatmeal or other whole-grain cereal for breakfast. Choose whole-grain bread for sandwiches. Aim for at least three servings of whole grains a day.

Don't forget to drink. In the winter, you may not feel very thirsty. But fluids are essential for controlling body temperature –whether it's hot or cold outside. Drink tea (herbal, green and black), soup and water. If your throat or sinuses feel sore, fluids are just the thing to help soothe them.

Do you stay away from dairy products during the winter? There's no science behind the belief that dairy foods increase mucous or influence upper respiratory infections. Probiotics in yogurt may actually help protect your immune system, and low-fat dairy foods are an excellent source of calcium and vitamins A and D.

Some of us (like me!) never manage to thoroughly warm up until April or May. But food can help. Casseroles, stews, cholent and soup are a real comfort on cold winter days. Now is the time for hearty bean and lentil soups, minestrone and chili.

A soothing winter meal might be a bowl of thick soup with whole-grain bread or savory muffin. Then there's hot cocoa (made with low-fat milk, cocoa and just a bit of sugar) and soothing green tea. Just wrap your hands around the cup, sip slowly and you'll be warmed up within minutes!

Recession: It's Good for Your Health

What's the positive side of an economic downturn?

Healthier eating.

When money gets tight, we're likely to cut back on more expensive food. And there's nothing more expensive than highly processed convenience food. Food that's usually high in sugar, salt and fat.

When your budget is tight, whole foods like seasonal fruits and vegetables, grains and legumes are the smartest choice. Just compare the cost of an apple to a store-bought snack bar; a bag of lentils to a can of prepared soup; plain brown rice to a packaged rice mix. At the cash register, real food is the winner.

When it comes to good nutrition, real food wins hands down.

People are funny. When money is tight, their budget forces them to buy smart. But when things get better, they go right back to their old habits. At the start of the recession, sales of ready-made store-bought salads (the ones laden with salt and fat) fell significantly in Israel. Lately, with money flowing easier, sales are back on the rise.

I'm not wishing for hard times. But we could all learn something about eating well by spending less.

Citrus Compote (Parve)

Now that our kumquat tree is loaded with ripe fruit, I've been making this compote a lot. It makes a lovely Shabbat dessert. The recipe is very flexible – use red grapefruit, blood oranges, pomelos or whatever citrus is available. I often use just oranges and tangerines. Add a dash of orange-flavored liqueur or orange extract to the syrup if you'd like. You can even skip the kumquats. (Recipe adapted from Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone)

8-12 fresh kumquats

½ cup orange juice

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon orange zest (preferably organic)

8-10 pieces assorted citrus fruit

Slice the kumquats, remove any seeds and set aside. Bring the orange juice and sugar to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the kumquats and orange zest to the syrup and simmer for 10 minutes. Set aside.

Peel and seed the citrus fruit, removing as much of the white pith as possible. Slice the fruit into rounds or smaller pieces, depending on the size of the fruit and your preference. Save all of the juice and put it into a bowl with the cut up fruit. Pour the syrup over the fruit and mix well. Refrigerate until cold.

Tu B'Shvat - Enjoying the Seven Species

Tu B'Shvat marks the beginning of a new growing season here in Israel. It's traditional to celebrate by eating from the seven species. What a perfect time to explore these delicious and nutritious grains, fruit and oil from the Tanach.

"[A] Land of wheat, barley, grape, fig and pomegranate; a Land of olive oil and date honey." (Devarim 8:8)

Wheat

Choose whole grain wheat for the most in vitamins, minerals and valuable fiber. Bulgur and cracked wheat cook in no time at all. Whole-wheat pasta served with a tomato-vegetable sauce makes an easy mid-week meal. Give a boost to your cookies, muffins and breads by using whole-wheat flour instead of white.

Barley

The soluble fiber in barley can lower "bad" cholesterol and stable blood sugar levels. It's also rich in selenium and fiber. Cook it as a side dish, use it as a stuffing for vegetables and add it to soups.

Grapes

Red or purple grapes and grape juice are full of healthy antioxidants like flavanoids and resveratrol that may play a role in heart health. Fresh grapes make a delicious snack and a colorful addition to fruit salads. If orange juice is your breakfast stand-by, try grape juice instead for a refreshing and treat.

Figs

Even the Rambam knew about the therapeutic value of figs. They're easily digestible and especially high in fiber – a nutrient lacking in most of our diets. They're a good source of potassium and one of the few fruits containing iron and calcium. Fig season is short, so when the season is over, enjoy them dried as snacks, poached or in cooking and baking.

Pomegranate

Pomegranate juice has one of the highest concentrations of antioxidants – health promoting compounds that may play a role in reducing the risks of heart disease and certain cancers. Be sure to buy unsweetened juice. Pour a little into a glass and top it with sparkling water – beats soft drinks any day!

Olive Oil

Extra-virgin olive oil is high in antioxidants and heart-healthy monounsaturated fats. Use it to dress grain, pasta, vegetable and green salads. Sauté chicken, fish and eggs in it and dip your bread in it. Check out my recipes for Olive Oil Cake and Olive Oil Brownies. Yummy!

Date Honey

The honey mentioned in the Tanach was most likely made from dates (called silan in Hebrew). It's a thick sweet syrup – the essence of dates. Use it as a substitute for molasses or honey, in baking and cooking. Dates are high in fiber and potassium. They make a great snack or last minute dessert when stuffed with walnuts or almonds.

Cauliflower – Vegetable, Pasta Sauce or Soup (Parve)

I like cauliflower. Not just because it's one of those good-for-you cruciferous vegetables that dietitians rave about. I find it visually attractive, tasty and very versatile. If you need convincing, here's an easy and delicious recipe.

Use half a cup of broth and serve as a vegetable. More broth turns it into pasta sauce. Add the full amount and you have soup. Serve with a sprinkling of grated parmesan or pecorino cheese, if you'd like.

By the way, this technique works well with broccoli too.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, cut in half and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic

1 medium head cauliflower, separated into small florets

½ to 4 cups vegetable broth (homemade is best; find out how)

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté or saucepan. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it's soft and beginning to brown. Add the garlic and cauliflower and cook, stirring, until the cauliflower begins to soften. This should take between 5 and 10 minutes.

Add the vegetable broth, salt and pepper. (See instructions above for the amount of broth to use.) Bring to a simmer and cook just until the cauliflower is just tender. Don't let it get mushy!

Fruit and Vegetables – The Frozen Option

Mid-winter produce can start looking a little sad right now. Hopefully you still have a decent selection of winter squash, cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage) and greens like chard and kale. Most of us can count on potatoes and carrots all year round.

As for fruit – apples, pears, bananas and citrus are usually available in the winter. In Israel we have local kiwi, persimmons and strawberries now as well.

I'm not a big fan of "long-distance" produce – fruits and vegetables grown thousands of miles away and flown in to satisfy our urge for raspberries in January. You see them here occasionally as well. Last week my green grocer had pineapples from Costa Rica and apples from the US. Thanks, but I'll stick with what's grown locally.

During the winter, think frozen – for a change of pace and when fresh are not in season.

Frozen fruit and vegetables are minimally processed. They're blanched first (immersed in a boiling water bath) to destroy enzymes that would otherwise effect their color, flavor and texture. Next they get a quick freeze. Most are flash-frozen soon after being picked, assuring that nutrients remain intact.

There's always a bag of frozen baby peas and artichoke hearts in our freezer. I've never been successful with broccoli, cauliflower or brussel sprouts, but corn and green beans are winners.

You can buy frozen mixed vegetables too (not just peas and carrots!) – good for soup, casseroles and side dishes. Look for vegetables with no added salt or fat.

Don't forget frozen fruit. For a special winter treat, add frozen blueberries or raspberries to your favorite muffin recipe. Perk up a winter apple or pear crisp with frozen cherries or berries.

Frozen fruit and vegetables are great convenience foods. Just cook in a little boiling water or in the microwave, and serve. Delicious, nutritious, easy and fast!

Sound Healthy? Think Again

Just because a food sounds healthy, doesn't mean it really is. Here are some products that can be misleading:

Multi-grain Bread

If it's really high in whole-grains, the first ingredient listed on the label will be whole-wheat flour. Many healthy sounding breads and crackers are made primarily of refined white flour, with some whole grains thrown in for flavor, color and crunch.

Energy Bars

Check the label of your favorite snack bar for calories, sugar and fat. Some energy bars have over 300 calories each. That's high energy, all right, but closer to a whole meal than a snack.

Fat-Free or Low-Fat Foods

Fat's not the whole story. Total calories, sugar, sodium and other ingredients count too. Read the ingredient label, not just the bold print, before deciding to buy a reduced-fat product.

Muffins

Bran, oatmeal and blueberry muffins sound pretty healthy. But there's more to a muffin than might meet the eye. Like sugar, fat and total size. Today's store-bought muffins are often huge, with enough calories to qualify for a whole meal. Check the ingredients before you bite in. And consider cutting your muffin in half – half for now and the other half for tomorrow.

Sports Drinks

If you're running a marathon, you may want a sports drink to replenish calories and electrolytes (like sodium and potassium) that are lost during strenuous exercise. But if your exercise is more casual or you're looking for a beverage to quench your thirst, tap water is the healthiest and least expensive choice.

Don't be fooled by healthy sounding names and seductive labels. Read the ingredient list and ask questions. Then decide for yourself if it's really good for you.